Welcome!

Welcome to Kitchen Revision ... a workspace for considering recipes and how they change, along with the cooks, the tasters, and the culture. I'm Beth Kanell, founder of Kitchen Revision. I love collecting and trying recipes -- and I'm endlessly interested in how history and culture shape us all. Plans for this space include co-authors, guest authors, plenty of discussion, and yummy diversions.

Thursday, December 24, 2015

Canning Applesauce: Checklist!

Today is the first day I've had "off" since September, so I'm catching up by posting this set of photos and tips on canning applesauce, especially for Stacy, who asked about canning back then.

Tip 1: Applesauce canning is the same as for any "acidic" fruit, like peaches and tomatoes. You want fruit that isn't spoiled -- although you can cut out bruises of course, and use the rest of the apple.


Tip 2: Use "real" canning jars. Yes, you can save money with glass mayonnaise jars and such, but the point of the real ones is, they are thicker glass and designed to take some heat. Especially for your first few tries, spend a few dollars on the real ones. You also need two other items shown here: rings, and lids. You can buy them together in one package. The rings are reusable forever (or close to it), but the lids are meant for one use only. See the red rim of rubbery material? That, and the precise shape of the lid -- those are the parts that make the airtight seal. Re-use the lids and you're asking for failed seals. The lids are cheap. Your time (and food) isn't! Make sure to wash everything before use. I like wide-mouth jars, myself.


Tip 3: I sort of quarter my apples, leaving out the cores -- which avoids (harmless) black specks fro the cores that way -- and simmer them in a heavy-bottom stock pan. Another good pan for this is the enamel-lined cast iron kind. Keep the heat modest, to avoid scorching. Add a little water. Stir often.


Tip 4: I've almost always used a "Foley mill" (shown here) to turn the soft apples to mush and remove the skins and any stray seeds. Mine usually lasts 15-20 years or so ... this is my second since 1984. So it's a good investment. You can experiment with other food mills if you like. Of course, if you choose to peel your apples, you can just stir the "mush" and not put it through a food mill at all. (And that's how to make "chunky" applesauce: peel, cook, and do not squish it!) But I'm usually looking for efficiency when I'm doing applesauce, so the Foley mill suits me. The hardware store has it -- or purchase online.


Tip 5: You MUST sterilize the jars. Here's how canning works: Water (or applesauce) when you boil it reaches 212 degrees F. That's hot enough to kill a lot of bacteria, but not some of them, and not the molds. By trapping the heated fruit inside the canning jar, you build up pressure that lets the temperature rise even higher than 212, and kill off the nasties. BUT if you don't sterilize the jars first, you risk having extra populations of bad buggies that won't die. I put mine into the canning kettle, with water up to about 3/4 of their sides, inside them too, and bring to a boil, with the lid on. After 5 minutes, they are in good shape for filling. Use tongs to lift them out, letting the water from inside them drain back into the kettle as you take the jars out. Place them on a dishtowel-covered bread board or countertop -- this prevents them getting shocked by the temperature changes they are going through -- and in a moment they'll be dry and hot and ready to fill.


Tip 6: Don't boil the lids! But they will be a bit closer to 100% sealing if you warm them in a bit of the hot water dipped out of the boiling canning kettle.

Tips 7 and 8: A wide-mouth funnel helps a lot in keeping the rims of the jars clean as you fill them. If you don't have a funnel like this, fill the jars carefully -- and then dip a corner of a paper towel into the water boiling in the canning kettle, and use this pretty sterile wet-wipe to clean the rims of the jars. You want a clean rim to meet the red rubber part of the lid; any food in between will prevent a good seal.



Tip 9: Set the lids into place and then screw on the bands LOOSELY. When you lower your jars to be submerged in the canning water (which should come up to half an inch OVER the tops of the jars; I usually keep a kettle boiling in the background in case I need a bit of extra water), air inside the jars will be forced out through the seal area -- it's a one-direction process. Then as you "can" -- that is, bring the water back to a boil and time carefully from the start of the boil (always check the right amount of time for the size jars you are using; it's likely to be about 30 minutes for quarts) -- the steam pressure builds up inside the jar (that's why you're using real canning jars, and new lids) to kill any harmful organisms and make the food safe to store at room temperature. It does help to have one of these special canning tongs thingies, but I canned without it for 20+ years -- a couple of potholders and a pair of cooking tongs will get you through.


Tip 10: When the time is up and you take out the jars, handle them gently and put them back onto that towel-covered board. PROTECT them from drafts and bumps for a few hours. You can screw the bands down a bit when you first take them out. But not too tight. After the jars have cooled (next morning), you can actually take the bands off -- the lids will be firmly sealed to the jars. Taking the bands off, and washing and drying them before putting them away, will help keep them in good shape for the next round. On the other hand, if your jars are likely to get bumped in cupboards or carrying, leave the bands in place. You can wipe the jars down with a clean damp cloth once they are cool, too.




You asked about how to be sure the jars have sealed. Here it is: Once the jars have cooled for a couple of hours, the center of each lid should be sucked down toward the fruit, making a dimple. Good! If instead the center is popped up, press it gently and see whether it stays down. If it does, and is still down in the morning (when the jars are cool), you're fine. But any jars where the lid dimple has NOT sucked down by morning should be considered "not sealed" -- just pop them into the fridge and use the contents within the next week. It's fine for eating, but it won't "keep."


Add your labels (be sure to add the year!) and enjoy having a stable, safe, and delicious food in your cupboard, for later in the season!

Wednesday, August 26, 2015

Lemon Zucchini Bread (Ssh, It's the Healthy Version)

I found a recipe last year for Glazed Lemon Zucchini Bread and it was great -- but way more than I wanted in the sweet and refined carbs area. Glad to share this newly adjusted and delicious version! Makes either 1 loaf (9 by 5 inch pan or, my preference, 10 by 3 inch) or fills an 8 by 8-inch cake pan.

Mix dry ingredients:

1 cup whole wheat flour
1 cup unbleached flour
2 tsp baking powder
2/3 cup sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1 tbsp lemon zest OR 2 tbsp candied lemon peel (I used King Arthur Flour's version )
2 tbsp lemon juice powder (again, King Arthur Flour sells this; if you don't have it, add the same amount of lemon juice to the wet ingredients instead)

Mix wet ingredients:

2 eggs
1/3 cup oil
1/2 cup buttermilk OR (my fave subsitute) milk + yogurt adding up to 1/2 cup

Combine. Fold in:

1-1/2 cups coarsely grated zucchini

Bake in greased pan at 350 degrees for 45 minutes (1 hour if using 10 by 3 inch pan). Cool for 15 minutes in the pan, then remove if using a loaf pan, to finish cooling on rack. (You can leave the cake-pan version in the pan and serve it from there.)

Sunday, June 28, 2015

Rhubarb Recipes

Preparing strawberry-rhubarb pie today.
The season is turning, even though a spate of rainy days has kept off some of the expected summer heat. I'm glad there's still rhubarb to harvest -- it's the first crop of spring, most years, and doesn't always last all that long! Weather and "pests" (like snails) can easily take it out of commission.

Today is a strawberry-rhubarb pie day here, which reminds me that I promised to post rhubarb recipes after the local "Historical House & Garden and Rhubarb Café" event had concluded. (People who attended were offered a lovely booklet of the recipes!) So here are some to enjoy.

CHOCOLATE RHUBARB BROWNIES

Best if cut only as small as 9 servings, but we managed 25 for the event!
  • 1 cup sugar
  • ½ cup vegetable oil
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla
  • ½ cup unbleached flour
  • cup cocoa powder
  • ½ teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon espresso powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup rhubarb, diced small
  • ½ cup dark chocolate chips

Preheat the oven to 375. Lightly grease an 8 x 8 inch baking pan.

In a medium-sized bowl whisk together the sugar, vegetable oil, eggs, and vanilla. In a large bowl whisk together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, espresso powder, and sea salt.

Stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and mix them until they are just incorporated. Add the rhubarb and chocolate chips and mix until they are combined. The batter will be quite thick.

Pour the batter into the prepared baking dish and spread it out so that it is even in the pan. Bake in the preheated oven for 20-25 minutes, or just until a toothpick inserted into the middle comes out clean. Be careful not to overcook the brownies so they don't dry out! Cool completely before cutting. 


FROSTED RHUBARB COOKIES

Maked 5 dozen. I baked and froze mine a week ahead of time, then frosted them on the day I wanted to serve them.

Preheat oven to 350º. Lightly grease cookie sheets or line with parchment paper.

Stir together:
3 cups flour
1 tsp baking soda
½ tsp salt

Cream together in a large bowl:
¼ cup (1/2 stick) softened butter
¾ cup shortening
1½ cups firmly packed brown sugar
2 large eggs

Add flour mix to sugar/shortening/egg mix and stir well.

Stir in:
¾ cup flaked coconut
1½ cups diced fresh rhubarb (diced small)

Drop by tablespoonfuls onto baking sheets. Bake 12-15 minutes. Cool on rack.

Frost when cool.

Frosting

Beat together:
3 ounces cream cheese, softened
1 Tbsp butter, softened
3 tsp vanilla extract
1½ cups confectioner’s sugar


RHUBARB PUNCH
Cut in small pieces 3 pounds rhubarb (should make 2 dry quarts).
Add 2 quarts water and cook until fruit is soft. Drain through double layer of cheesecloth -- you will find a lovely pink juice released from the "green" mash!
Add 3 cups sugar and bring to a boil. Add 1 cup orange juice and 1/2 cup lemon juice.
Chill. Measure, and add equal volume of chilled ginger ale -- or for a lower sugar version, use a sparkling water like Perrier. Serve with crushed ice.

Saturday, April 25, 2015

Jean's Chewy Maple Cookies

Left side, cut with pizza cutter! Right side, recipe working much better.
My good friend Jean shared her recipe yesterday for Chewy Maple Cookies -- yumm! Baking them today, I used the "very strong dark" maple syrup that Goodrich's Maple Farm in Cabot, Vermont, provides for cooks. I also tried substituting whole wheat flour for part of the white flour in the original recipe -- not a success at first, as the whole wheat flour didn't absorb the liquid, and the cookies spread into a sheet of cooked dough on the (parchment-lined) pan. A few quick strokes with the pizza cutter turned things back into snack form, but I still wanted the cookie shape, so with the other half of the dough I raised the amount of flour.

Here's my final "revised" version -- and Jean, thank you very much!

Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees.

Stir together:
1-1/2 (one and one half) cups unbleached flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
2 tsp baking powder
dash salt
1 cup finely chopped walnuts (I put the regular chopped ones in a small plastic bag and run the rolling pin over them a couple of times to make them finer)

In a large bowl, beat with hand mixer:
1/2 cup shortening
1 cup (packed) light brown sugar
1 egg
1/2 cup dark maple syrup (if you can't get dark, use light but add Jean's extra ingredient: 1/2 tsp maple flavoring)

Stir in dry ingredients. Drop dough by generous teaspoonfuls onto parchment-lined or greased cookie sheet. Bake at 375 for 12 minutes. Makes about 4 dozen.

Maple Pecan Pie

Sugaring season is close to the end around here (northeastern Vermont) -- one local family said today they had made 35 gallons of maple syrup from their home sugarbush and sugarhouse (35 times 40 = 1400 gallons of sap to do that!). They'll be washing out their buckets tomorrow.

And tomorrow I'll be meeting readers and selling my Vermont mysteries at the St. Albans (Vermont) Maple Festival, so I'm getting in the mood for the sweet celebration! Here's my best maple pecan pie recipe; it has some "pauses" in the process, so watch the timing if you're in a rush.

Heat and boil for 1 minutes, then let cool to lukewarm (ideal to place out on a chilly back porch!):
3/4 cup maple syrup
3/4 cup packed light brown sugar
1/2 cup light corn syrup

Make a single-crust pie dough recipe, roll out, and fit into the pan; put it in the freezer for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, pre-heat oven to 350 degrees.

Whip eggs, whisking in the lukewarm syrup mixture, vanilla, and salt and then stirring in the pecans:
3 large eggs
1 tsp vanilla
1/4 tsp salt
1-1/2 (one and one half) cups pecan halves

Fill pie shell with mixture. Bake at 350, placed low in the oven, for 55 minutes. Cool before serving.

Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Oatmeal Cookies with Dark Chocolate Chips OR with (2018 Update) Rhubarb

Had a request today for this recipe, and it's worth sharing it -- it's based on the back-of-the-box recipe from Quaker Oats, but I've been adapting it to my taste (and cupboard) for the past 35 years. When I learned that "brown sugar" in stores was actually just white sugar with molasses added, I changed the recipe to reflect this -- and not pay the higher price of brown sugar! I've found different kinds of rolled oats ("quick" or 5-minute or health-food-store organic) make different textures of the cookie. Lately I use the health-food-store organic, because it's what I have in the house, but I think the recipe sometimes works better with the 5-minute type -- sort of halfway between the textures of the organic and the "quick." And for the chocolate chips, my own taste now is suited best by the Ghirardelli "60% cocoa" bittersweet chips, not as sweet, but I've made plenty of batches of cookies with Nestle semi-sweet chocolate chips.

You can vary this by adding coarsely chopped walnuts, or dried cranberries (about half a cup of either one), or you can use raisins; if you do raisins and chocolate chips together, it tastes terrific. If you do raisins without chocolate, add a teaspoon of cinnamon to the flour. UPDATE, May 2018: Add 2 cups of finely chopped (but not crushed; a quarter inch is good) fresh rhubarb if you like! But this version needs to be eaten within a day or so, because the rhubarb has so much moisture.

And definitely, you can make the recipe without the chocolate chips, for plain oatmeal cookies. I've tried whole wheat flour in it and find the cookies get too heavy, but it's worth experimenting if that's what you like. And oh yes, ALL flour varies, even from day to day, so if your first pan of cookies all sort of "melt flat" and come out too thin, add another 2 tablespoons of flour to the remaining dough before making the next pan of them.

           Beth's Chocolate Chip Oatmeal Cookies

Preheat the oven to 350º and grease two large cookie sheets. (I now use the insulated cookie sheets; if you don't have them and you are using thin metal, you might try 325º instead and add 2 minutes longer cooking. That's what I used to do. And you can avoid greasing the cookie sheets if you use parchment paper on them.)

Mix together in a large bowl, using a wooden spoon:

3/4 cup vegetable shortening (like Crisco)
1-1/4 (that's one and a quarter) cups sugar
2 eggs
2 Tablespoons molasses
1 teaspoon vanilla

Mix in a small bowl:
1-1/2 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking soda

Dump the flour into the shortening/sugar mix, and mix until mostly blended. Add:

2-1/2 cups rolled oats
6 ounces (half a large pack, or an entire small pack) chocolate chips (and see above for other additions)

Spoon onto the cookie sheets, about a tablespoon of dough per cookie, with an inch and a half between cookies.

Bake for 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from cookie sheets right away and cool on racks. (If you don't have cookie cooling racks, or you're not sure you'll have time or energy to take the cookies off the cookie sheets right away, try using "parchment paper" on your cookie pans, instead of greasing them with shortening. Then you can lift the whole sheet of paper off at once, with all the cookies, and set this to cool on a countertop or table. I try to keep some around, now that I've found out how handy it is.)

That's it! Have fun.